The beauty, culture, and romanticism of Paris have served as inspiration for countless writers, but few have immortalised the city with such fervour and nuance as Ernest Hemingway. His years in the French capital during the 1920s not only moulded his literary style but also left an indelible mark on the city’s collective history. Embark on a journey that will give you a glimpse into Hemingway’s Paris. We focus on the top 10 Hemingway Paris Locations worth visiting if you are a fan of this literary icon.
1. LA CLOSERIE DES LILAS
Our literary pilgrimage begins at La Closerie des Lilas, the famed brasserie in Montparnasse. It was within these very walls that Hemingway breathed life into his acclaimed novel, “The Sun Also Rises”. Picture a scene, if you will: the evening sun casting dappled light across the room, the ambient hum of Parisian chatter, and amidst it all, Hemingway – deeply engrossed, typing away fervently on his typewriter. Occasionally, he’d glance up, take a sip from his glass of crisp Chablis, perhaps engage in light banter with fellow patrons, and then dive back into his literary world. Anecdotes suggest that Hemingway was fiercely protective of his favourite spot at the café. He cherished the unique blend of the café’s vibrant energy and its intimate corners, allowing him both the inspiration and the solitude he sought. Fast forward to today, and the legacy remains immortalised. Venture inside, and you’ll find a brass plaque marking ‘La place d’Hemingway’. And as you sit there, perhaps with a glass of wine in hand, the atmosphere is thick with the echoes of Hemingway’s musings and the keystrokes that etched them into history.
2. SHAKESPEARE BOOKSTORE
Across from Notre Dame Cathedral stands the legendary Shakespeare and Company bookstore. This was not just a bookstore for Hemingway; it was an institution. Managed with indefatigable passion by Sylvia Beach, the quaint shop emerged as the fulcrum of the ‘Lost Generation’ writers. Here, within its narrow, book-laden corridors, Hemingway, alongside luminaries like Fitzgerald and Joyce, delved deep into animated discourses, rigorous critiques, and a shared, insatiable quest for penning the next great work. Tales recount how Hemingway, ever the voracious reader, frequently borrowed books, a testimony to the profound trust and enduring friendship he shared with Sylvia. But perhaps the crowning jewel in Shakespeare and Company’s storied legacy is Sylvia’s audacious decision to publish James Joyce’s magnum opus, “Ulysses,” when others recoiled. Hemingway, with his keen eye for talent and innate respect for audacity, held this feat in particularly high esteem. To this day, as the bell above the door tinkles with the entrance of every visitor, one can’t help but feel the literary ghosts of the past whispering tales of a bygone era of unparalleled creative fervour.
3. CAFE LE SELECT
In the bustling heart of Montparnasse lies the iconic Le Select, its yellow awning an emblem of 1920s Parisian café culture. As you step onto its signature checkerboard floors, you’re immediately drawn into its illustrious history, where the intoxicating blend of coffee and literature became the café’s lifeblood. Among its many patrons, Ernest Hemingway stood out, treating Le Select as more than just a café – it was his informal office. Imagine a young Hemingway, drafting “A Moveable Feast” in a corner, fueled by ceaseless cups of the bistro’s robust coffee, while F. Scott Fitzgerald would saunter in, leading to hours of animated conversation. Their debates, rumoured to be a blend of personal jibes and profound literary insights, resonated within the café’s walls, much to the amusement of onlookers. Anecdotes of Hemingway’s ‘office hours’ at Le Select paint a picture of a dedicated writer, sometimes deeply engrossed in his manuscripts, at times distracted by the feline residents of the café, occasionally pausing to offer them a piece of cheese from his plate. Today, the essence of Le Select remains unchanged. With walls adorned with photographs from its golden era, each corner feels like a portal to the past, where if you listen closely, the echoes of Hemingway’s laughter and the rhythmic clatter of his typewriter linger, immortalising the café in literary history.
4. HEMINGWAY BAR AT THE RITZ HOTEL
If walls had ears, the ones at Ritz Paris would have eavesdropped on some of Hemingway’s most intimate conversations and moments. The Ritz wasn’t just a hotel for Hemingway; it was a sanctuary, a home away from home. He loved it so much that he once quipped, “When in Paris, the only reason not to stay at the Ritz is if you can’t afford it.” His bond with the place was such that, during the liberation of Paris in 1944, he “liberated” the Ritz Bar. Imagine a boisterous Hemingway, rifle slung over his shoulder, marching into the bar, declaring it free from enemy occupation, and then ordering champagne for everyone. Today, in honour of its illustrious patron, the hotel’s bar has been aptly renamed Bar Hemingway. A trove of Hemingway memorabilia decorates its space, and the cocktails pay homage to his literary works. The bartenders, well-versed in Hemingway lore, are more than eager to share tales of his escapades or his favourite drinks. The bar feels like a time capsule, taking patrons back to nights filled with jazz, literary discourse, and Hemingway holding court with his vibrant tales.
5. BRASSERIE LIPP
In the heart of Saint-Germain-des-Prés stands Brasserie Lipp, an emblem of Parisian culture and a melting pot for intellectuals and artists of Hemingway’s time. The mirrors lining its walls, if they could talk, would regale listeners with tales of Hemingway’s animated discussions or his fervent scribblings on paper napkins when inspiration struck amidst a meal. Hemingway held a special affection for Lipp’s cervelat salad. It wasn’t merely a dish for him; it was a concoction that, in his playful words, fueled his literary genius. In one of his letters, he mentioned this dish, stating that a good cervelat salad and a glass of beer could be the recipe behind his next great novel. It’s amusing to imagine Hemingway, amidst the brasserie’s Art Deco architecture and under its ornate ceilings, pontificating on life’s big questions after a hearty meal, always accompanied by his trusted pen and paper.
6. GERTRUDE STEIN’S APARTMENT
Nestled within the historic quarters of Paris, at 27 rue de Fleurus, Gertrude Stein’s apartment wasn’t just her home; it was the 1920s’ intellectual epicentre. This space, brimming with works by Picasso and Matisse, saw Hemingway and Stein engage in fervent debates, charting the trajectory of modern literature. Their interactions ranged from sage advice to fiery disagreements. Amid this artistic backdrop, Stein, having dissected one of Hemingway’s tales, coined the legendary phrase, “You are all a lost generation,” a remark Hemingway would immortalise in “The Sun Also Rises.” Stein, with her predilection for experimental writing and her association with avant-garde artists, became Hemingway’s mentor, instilling in him the importance of clear, concise prose. Stein’s decluttered approach to writing, which she often compared to Cubist art, both inspired and irked Hemingway. Their discussions, sometimes disagreements, echoed amidst a backdrop of Picasso and Matisse artworks. But it was here, amidst these discussions, that Hemingway began to find his voice.
7. LES DEUX MAGOTS
Not to be confused with the English word “magot”, Les Deux Magots gets its curious name from two wooden statues that dot its grand interiors, translating to “The Two Figurines”. This brasserie once buzzed with discussions from Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, also saw Ernest Hemingway as one of its dedicated patrons. Picture a young Hemingway, perched by the window, mulling over the passersby while scribbling fervently into his notebook. Anecdotes suggest that Hemingway’s interactions here weren’t just with his pen and paper. He’d often engage in animated, morning dialogues with none other than James Joyce, and legend has it that it was amidst these very walls that a tentative Joyce passed over his “Ulysses” manuscript to Hemingway. Today, as you step onto its vintage-tiled floors, there’s an undeniable aura – a blend of nostalgia and inspiration. The whispering walls, the iconic wicker chairs, and the time-worn tables collectively echo tales of yesteryears, while also inviting new stories. It’s this timeless allure, with Hemingway’s lingering spirit, that makes Les Deux Magots not just a café, but a perpetual chapter in Paris’s literary narrative.
8. CAFE DE FLORE
As one of the city’s oldest coffeehouses, its Art Deco interiors have played host to a glittering tapestry of thinkers and writers. While the likes of Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir have left their intellectual imprint here, Ernest Hemingway too was magnetically drawn to its inviting ambiance. Visualise a scene, if you will, where Hemingway, with his deep-set eyes, sits on the green leather seat, frequently looking up from his manuscript to observe the dance of the Parisian rain outside. It’s whispered among the café’s corners that Hemingway would often get lost in deep conversations here, sometimes critique-driven, sometimes camaraderie-filled, with fellow literary giants. One delightful anecdote has it that, during one of his visits, Hemingway once spent an entire afternoon at Café de Flore, debating the nuance of a single sentence with another writer. As the years have rolled on, the café’s allure remains undiminished. Those iconic red awnings, mirrored walls, and mahogany tables still pull in aspiring writers, hoping that the magic of Hemingway and his contemporaries might rub off on them. It’s not just a place for coffee; Café de Flore is where the past and present of literary Paris beautifully entwine.
9. MUSEE DE LA CHASSE ET NATURE
Situated in the Marais district, this Museum of Hunting and Nature might seem an odd choice. But Ernest Hemingway, with his profound affinity for hunting and the untamed beauty of the wild, found himself irresistibly drawn to this place. The museum’s opulent rooms, filled with centuries-old hunting weapons, taxidermy, and art, narrate a fascinating tale of man’s relationship with nature. It’s easy to picture Hemingway here, wandering through the galleries with that characteristic glint in his eye, finding himself face-to-face with a majestic stag or a fierce wild boar. Anecdotes whisper of Hemingway getting lost in reverie before a certain artwork, only to later pen down a story that echoed its themes. The museum, with its curious amalgamation of the savage and the sophisticated, might have reminded him of his own adventures, from the Spanish bullrings to the African savannahs. Even today, as visitors stroll through the museum’s corridors, there’s an unmistakable Hemingway-esque aura that envelops you, a fusion of the wild heart and the keen eye, resonating through the exhibits. The Musée de la Chasse et de la Nature isn’t merely a museum; it’s an ode to the timeless dance of man, beast, and nature – a dance that Hemingway so passionately celebrated through his words.
10. JARDINS LUXEMBOURG
As the story goes, during his early, leaner days in Paris, Hemingway would often stroll through the gardens, drawing inspiration from its captivating landscape, complete with statues, fountains, and the grand Luxembourg Palace itself. Imagine him, hat slightly askew, as he ambles alongside the serene pond, watching children sail their wooden boats — a scene he fondly recalls in “A Moveable Feast.” One particularly poignant anecdote speaks of Hemingway catching fish from the garden’s pond to cook, given the scarcity of funds and food. The gardens might have also offered him solace during moments of writer’s block, with its tree-lined avenues and aromatic flowerbeds serving as the perfect antidote to a clouded mind. It’s said that many of his stories, filled with vivid natural imagery, have subtle imprints of Luxembourg’s beauty. Today, while the gardens remain a retreat for Parisians and tourists alike, for those in the know, every rustling leaf and whispering breeze carries with them tales of a young writer, finding his voice amidst the unparalleled splendour of the Luxembourg Gardens.